–A guest post from IndiGo.
When I disembarked from my Delhi to Srinagar flight, the fresh mountain air and the majestic sight of the snow-clad Himalayas was enough to recharge my soul for further travel. I had always wanted to come to the jewel of Kashmir and thanks to the flights to Srinagar it was now possible. Little did I know that the real beauty of Srinagar was not on the surface of the earth but on its shimmering waters.
First glimpse of Dal Lake
As soon as I stepped into Dal Lake, I felt that I had entered a realm that was somewhere between dream and reality. The lake, a large body of water with crystal clear water and the mountains in the background, was full of brightly painted houseboats and beautiful shikaras. I was looking forward to getting into this rather exotic lifestyle of the inhabitants of this world.
Home on the water: The Kashmir princess
The houseboat I stayed in for the next few days was the “Kashmir Princess”, a splendid houseboat that was docked at the shores of Dal Lake. On getting on board, the first thing that caught my eye was the beautiful carving on the woodwork and the beautiful Kashmiri carpets that covered the interior of the boat. My host, Mr Nazir, a third generation houseboat owner, welcomed me with a cup of kahwa, a local tea prepared with saffron and almonds.
As I got into my floating home, I could not help but admire the workmanship that had gone into the making of these floating structures. Mr Nazir said that houseboats were a tradition in Srinagar for over a hundred years; the British who constructed them could not own property in Kashmir. Today, they are a symbol of the talent of Kashmiri and his ability to host a guest.
A sunset shikara ride
It was the evening time and the sky was painted with shades of orange and pink, and that is when I first took a shikara ride. These elongated wooden boats that are also referred to as the Gondolas of Kashmir are the major means of transport in Dal Lake. My shikara wallah (boatman), Abdul, expertly navigated the thin channels, telling me about life on the lake.
Floating gardens and markets
We sailed by water gardens with platforms filled with flowers and vegetables floating on the water. He said that these ingenious gardens, called “rad,” are constructed by interlocking the roots of water plants to provide a floatation system for growing crops. I was amazed to watch tomatoes, cucumbers, and even melons floating on the water and growing on the water's surface.
We proceeded to the floating market which is a rather interesting event that occurs every morning at the break of dawn. Mental note: I have to get up early tomorrow to see this! Abdul then took the opportunity to explain to us the different shops and services that are found on the lake including bakeries, vegetable sellers, and even moving ATMs. It was a whole world that was built on water.
A feast for the senses
When we got back to my houseboat, the smell of Rogan Josh was already in the air. For dinner, Mr Nazir had arranged a typical Wazwan meal. I remember how I felt sitting on the deck, eating delicious Kashmiri food, watching stars dancing on the water of Dal Lake, and I realized I was not anxious at all – I had not been anxious for years.
Boat at the floating market in the morning
The next morning I woke up to the sound of water splashing against the houseboat. I was not ready to leave the place so I got on a shikara to take a sunrise tour of the floating market. The lake bustled with activities as boats carrying fresh produce, flowers, and handicrafts arrived in the golden morning light. The colours were bright, the bargaining lively, and the overall setting of the market was like a painting with the mountains veiled in mist in the background.
Beyond the lake: Mughal Gardens
Mughal Gardens are the gardens that were developed during the Mughal Empire in India.
In the morning, after breakfast, I thought of going outside the Dal Lake area. A brief shikara ride was enough to bring me to the Mughal Gardens. The well maintained gardens of Shalimar Bagh and Nishat Bagh with their lawns and fountains were in complete contrast to the natural beauty of the lake. These gardens were laid by the Mughal emperors and were used as a place of relaxation and to get a glimpse of Dal Lake.
Exploring Srinagar's waterways
I went back to the lake and took a walk through the many channels that pass through the old city of Srinagar. My boat person sailed through the small canals with houses and small bridges that are hundreds of years old. We were able to walk past the Shah-e-Hamdan mosque with its tower mirror like in the calm waters of the river.
The jewel in the ring: Nageen Lake
Nageen Lake is a natural lake in the vicinity of the city of Multan in the Punjab province of Pakistan.
On my last day I thought of going for a longer Shikara ride to Nageen Lake which is known as the ‘Jewel in the Ring’ of Kashmir Lakes. Though not as popular as Dal Lake, Nageen was much more peaceful. I saw talented craftsmen making beautiful hand crafted paper-mâché boxes and walnut wood carving on their houseboats, which they have been doing for generations.
A heartfelt goodbye
At the end of my stay in Srinagar, I understood that the houseboats and shikaras are not only a part of the local tourism but are the identity of the people of Kashmir. These floating homes and graceful boats have survived the times and have been able to change with the times and remain beautiful and important.
My flight booking back to Delhi made me feel emotional since I wanted to spend more time here. I was not only carrying souvenirs but also a deep respect for the floating lifestyle in Srinagar. The pleasant boat rides, the cordiality of the people, and the scenic beauty of Dal Lake are etched in my heart.
To anyone who is planning to visit this paradise, I would encourage you to do so. This floating dream is not as far-fetched as it may seem since there are many Delhi to Srinagar flights. Whether you want to have a quiet time, explore the unknown or get a feel for a different culture, the houseboats in Srinagar are a must-try.
I sat down comfortably in the chair and started thinking about my next visit and the calm waters of Dal Lake and the floating dreams of the future tourists. Srinagar is not just a place to visit but it is a voyage to the world of shikaras where land and water, old world charm and new age living blend to make it a paradise.
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